Restaurant review: Black Roe

Carole Hamilton enjoys a Mayfair masterclass in this year's hottest trend, Hawaiian poke

Black Roe is tucked away in a side road a stones throw from Regent’s Street and it’s still a little bit of a foodie secret but we are aiming to change that, because it’s a real find. The menu embraces food from the Pacific Rim, which is a pretty big area so you know there’s going to be lots of things on the menu that you like.

Poke (pronounced poe-kay) is a highlight and very good it is too. For anyone who has yet to discover the delights of Hawaiian raw fish cubes in a spicy salsa marinade on top of sticky short-grain rice, you’re in for a treat. A big bowl of this and I am in heaven and would happily have stopped there but there’s a whole menu to explore.

To celebrate the restaurant’s second birthday this summer, the interior has been transformed with blooms cascading from the ceiling, a fusion of sunset blossoms, Asian poppies, orchids and blousy peonies hang above your head. The new cocktail menu takes you on journey to the sandy beaches of the Pacific and we can highly recommend the Aloha, made with Tanqueray 10, grapefruit Juice, St Germain elderflower liqueur, Yuzu juice and foam made from peach puree, prosecco and lemon.

The food
Treat yourself to the new Pacific Paradise Tasting Menu (£60 per person) where you can take your taste buds to Vietnam, Thailand, Hawaii, Japan and beyond. Start with tuna tacos, bite-sized and packed with mango, guacamole and lime juice. Then a bowl of the famous Yellowtail poke followed by a delicious prawn and pork gyoza some wonderful slithers of scallop ceviche. I”m not usually a fan of lamb but prepared Hawaiian style, all sticky and barbecued to just the right consistency, and I’m sold. The warm churros with chocolate sauce are so good we had to ask for a few more to end the meal.

The verdict?
I love this kind of food, a whole array of bite-sized dishes that pack a big punch of flavour. Black Roe is small but perfectly formed and whether you go for lunch or dinner, there’ s a warm welcome from the team who are keen to explain their menu favourites. The restaurant soundtrack is pretty good too.

4 Mill Street, London W1X 2AS, 020 3794 8448, blackroe.com

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