Restaurant Review: Hide

One of the most eagerly awaited openings of the year, Carole Hamilton went along to Hide to see what all the fuss is about

I am a big fan of chef Ollie Dabbous, his previous restaurant in Fitzrovia was a treat (if you were lucky enough to get a table) and heaped with praise from punters and critics alike, along with a coveted Michelin star. The chef has now joined forces with Mayfair favourite Hedonism Wines and opened Hide in Piccadilly. I enjoy Ollie’s cooking so much I went along twice so I could experience the difference menus.

The restaurant is spread across several floors, linked with what has to be the most beautiful staircase in London, made from laminated oak it twists and turns and it’s almost impossible not to stroke the wood as you pass.

The food
Diners can choose to eat at Ground or Above, depending on your budget, how much time you have and how hungry you are feeling. Highlights of the Ground menu are the Candy stripe beetroot with blood orange, pistachio and marigold and the Cornish mackerel tartare with iced eucalyptus. For main courses, the seasonal vegetables in a warm Spenwood broth is a masterclass in flavours, for something that sounds so simple, the result is just wow. The lamb cooked over embers was perfectly smoked and the charred broccoli is something I have since tried at home, again so simple and so delicious.

Above is all about the Tasting menu, although there is a set lunch every day which is good  value at £42 for three courses. We loved the slow roasted organic carrots and the pasta parcels of King crab with crispy vegetables. The warm acorn cake with smoked caramel, your choice of liqueur and clotted cream is a meal in itself so do keep some room, it’s wonderful.

Upstairs is where you also get to experience the wonderful view out across Green Park and get to watch the chefs at work in the kitchen.

I’ve yet to sample it but the Afternoon tea menu looks really interesting and the candyfloss with wild herbs definitely has my name on it. Hide is open for breakfast too from 7.30am on weekdays, 9.00am at the weekend.

Wine lovers will appreciate the collaboration with Hedonism Wines and as you would expect, there is masses of choice including an excellent selection by the glass. For pure indulgence the Tasting Menu with the Hedonistic wine pairing will add £295 but expect to sample some of the best wine alongside some of the best cooking in London.

The verdict
Nothing about Hide disappoints, Ollie and his team are producing some stunning food. It’s not cheap but then cooking of this quality is always going to come at a price. And I would pop along for a birch sap croissant and a cup of coffee on the way to work just to marvel at that staircase.

Hide, 85 Piccadilly, London W1, 020 3146 8666 hide.co.uk

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